1. Where did you get your dog leashes?

You can get the same leashes and almost all of your other dog needs online from many different dog / pet supply warehouses. You can also get them by walking around the vendor’s booths at a dog show. You will not find them at your regular pet stores. They are called English Slip Leads.

Wide collars are not a good idea. Bulldogs have fleshy throats, and wide or flat collars can choke them. Some Bulldogs also do not have much length of neck and putting a wide collar on them is like put on a neck brace.

Leaving a choke chain or collar on a Bulldog is NOT a good idea. We never leave any on our dogs and have them micro chipped, and every pup we breed has been micro chipped before it goes to it’s new home.

2. What do you feed your dogs?

For kibble we have fed Nature’s Recipe Non-Allergenic Venison Formula, which you can find at both PetSmart and Petco. We also like using Canidea and Avoderm. Premium dog foods are the best choices. Cheap dog foods will give you skin and coat problems. Stay away from foods with a high corn content because you will be picking up many more piles in the yard, and corn can cause major allergic reactions in Bulldogs.

We know a lot of people that have fed Black Diamond foods. We also know for a fact that this food has been recalled by the manufacturer on more than one occasion, so we have never used it and will not.

All vegetable diets tend to keep Bulldogs too skinny. An unhealthy skinny. Also foods high in carrots, tomato, and sugar beats will cause staining with a dog’s coat and skin.

For canned food we feed Nutro’s Natural Choice, also found at PetSmart and Petco. We also use Canidae cans. They have various recipes to choose from. For dogs I am trying to put weight on for the show ring, we feed the high energy formula because of the high fat content. Avoid canned food with high salt content as it can cause bloat and death.

We do not like raw food diets. A lot of dog owners are feeding that diet these days, but we would rather not put all of the live bacteria into our dog’s systems. At times we do feed some cooked liver or scrambled egg, on top of the kibble. Again, it’s cooked. If you feed eggs often and do not cook the whites of the eggs it causes digestive problems for the dog. Never ever feed a dog raw fish, or any type of shell fish.

Many Bulldog owners constantly comment and complain that their dogs passes a lot of gas. This is a very good indicator that they are using the wrong dog food. Don’t live with the irritant, put the dog on the proper diet. Everybody will be happier.

3. Why should I crate train my dog?

There are many very good reasons you should, and no reason not to that I can think of. Dogs need their own place where they can go and rest and be left alone. A crate that is just their “space” is perfect for this. An uncrated dog can and will destroy the house if left unattended or alone for long periods of time. Crating makes house training your dog very simple and easy when done correctly. Crating also helps to teach them to eat when you want them to. Not to mention being a place where you can safely put your dog out of the way when the mother-in-law comes over for dinner.

Be aware though that a dog crated ALL of the time WILL develop crate sores and also become lame. Dogs need freedom of movement each day as well as exercise, just like the rest of us.

4. Why do we have to get up in the middle of the night to potty the dog?

Dogs are creatures of habit, and it is up to you to figure out a schedule for your dog to eat, exercise, rest, play, and potty. It may take some time for you to figure out the best schedule for your dog, but once you have it, stick to that schedule the best you can. Let your dog out to relieve him or her self right before you go to bed, and then put your dog to bed in the crate. The first thing you should do each and every time you let your dog out of the crate is to let it out to potty. Make sure you give your dog enough time not to just urinate, but to move the bowels as well. Never strike at or kick your dog for an accident in the house! Show him / her the mess, say bad dog, and put him or her outside immediately to finish relieving him or her self.

5. What do you use to worm your dogs, and how often?

We use a horse worming paste called Zimectrin. This method was taught to us by other Bulldog breeders, and has been very effective. Be careful to notice the tube is marked in pound increments for horses. Simply estimate or weigh your dog (weighing is best) and squeeze it out onto your index finger. Then swipe the paste off of your finger onto the dogs tongue. This way you do not squeeze too much into the dog’s mouth.

From late fall through early spring, I de-worm the dogs every 2-3 months. During the late spring to early fall I will de-worm the dogs on the 1st of every month. I am told that doing this during the warm months prevents heart worms.

This however, does not replace having a veterinarian do a heartworm test on your dog. If your dog does have heart worms, the vet needs to do a simple but aggressive treatment to rid the dog of them.

6. Why do I need a “Bulldog veterinarian?”

This is a HUGE issue, so pay attention here folks. To put it simply,…not all veterinarians are created equally! To explain further,….a regular vet is fine for things like vaccinations and worming, but do not trust the local vet to do surgeries, respiratory treatments, ect.. A vet experienced with bracheoscepholic breeds is definitely needed, especially where anesthesia is being used. An inexperienced vet can quickly lose the dog on the table, or pneumonia can quickly set in. Never allow a regular vet do a cherry eye surgery either. Going to a vet with the right training and experience will also save you a ton of cash by not doing unnecessary tests and medications. I can not stress it enough….NOT ALL VETERINARIANS ARE CREATED EQUAL!!!!!

7. How do you get rid of tear stains around the eyes and in facial wrinkles?

Tear stains can be caused by several different things such as dog food, humidity, and minerals in the drinking water. There is no one way to get rid of them. There are a few things you can do that will or will not work. If one method does not work over time, try another method. Usually the stains seem to come from the type of food the dog is eating. We had this problem, so we switched to the food I made note of in question #2. Wallah! No more stains.

Regular bathing and grooming goes a long ways to help with tear stains as well.

If you think you need a little extra help, then there is Tylan. This is an antibiotic used in the poultry industry to make chickens lay the nice white eggs you buy in the supermarket. Do not put it in the dogs water. This stuff is extremely bitter and foul tasting, and you do not want to prevent your dog from drinking water. For the same reason, be careful not to get it in your mouth, eyes, or skin. Not too tasty! You can simply put a little on your dogs tongue, and then feed the dog so he / she can get rid of the taste. If you put it on the food you will eventually teach your dog not to eat. You do not want that. When I say just a little, I mean literally a smidge. Give this once a day for 2 to 3 weeks, and then stop, wait a couple of weeks at least, and repeat. This stuff is expensive, but it has worked for us and others.

Then there are always the creams and ointments you can buy. Do not waste your time or money. These things may fade the stains, but will not get rid of them.

Never, ever, get the bright idea of using bleach on your dog to get rid of stains! If you do, be ready for me to come over and do it to you as well. Please, no bleach! I actually have heard of a few people trying this. Not the brightest bulbs in the box.

8. How far can I walk my Bulldog?

Remember, these are bracheoscepholic dogs that are susceptible to overheating. These are not sporting, working dogs, or hounds. If you want a jogging buddy, or trail hiking buddy, you need to look for a different breed of dog.

Bulldogs do need exercise, but be smart about it. A 2 to 3 residential block distance is plenty for your Bulldog. Be mindful of the heat, and do not walk any dog on hot asphalt or cement. You can easily burn the pads of your dogs feet and injure them. Dogs are not horses with hooves. If a walking surface is too hot for you to comfortably walk barefoot on it, it is too hot for your dog’s feet. The same goes for cold. Be careful not to freeze them. I have seen many dogs with frostbitten feet.

Also be mindful of stickers, sharp rocks, and broken glass. Living in the Pacific Northwest we should all know about the many thorns from berry bushes as well, so be mindful of eyes and body too. A dog’s feet are tougher than a humans, but they are not bulletproof.

Keep in mind also, most issues of a stretched palette are caused by care of the animal, and not genetics, although at times it is. When a Bulldog is overheated it breathes harder, and this stretches the tissue of the soft palette, and can inflame the trachea, causing it to swell enough to greatly reduce the size of the airway. A lot of phlegm is also created, and can cause a Bulldog to choke to death. Using lemon juice you can quickly cut the phlegm in a dogs throat so it can breath again. This can be 100% lemon juice, or you can cut it with water. When using the lemon juice, just be sure not to drown the dog with it.

9. How often should I wash my dog, and with what?

If your dog is filthy, or stinky, please wash it. I get asked this a lot. If the dog is not so dirty you don’t mind it sitting on the couch or your bed, every couple of weeks is a good interval. Some dogs are like little pigs and get as dirty as they can, much like a young child.

I use a shampoo and conditioner formulated for breeds like Bulldogs and Sharpei’s. I buy it from a vendor I sometimes see at dog shows. I also use Orvus Livestock shampoo, mostly for what I call pet baths. Just be sure to rinse the dog off really well. Stay away from the perfumey shampoos you can get at PetSmart, Petco, ect. They are not good shampoos, and the chemicals to make them smell good can cause allergic reactions. An oatmeal based shampoo is good to use for Bulldogs, especially if you have an itchy dog. I always use a good conditioner to help keep the coat shiny, oily, and supple.

Never use a dish soap or laundry detergent or car wash soap. These soaps are much too harsh on a dog’s skin and will give it a very bad rash.

10. How often should I clean my dog’s ears?

Often, and regularly. You do not want your dog to get a painful ear infection when it can be prevented simply by cleaning the ears. Be careful not to use a Q-tip, and injure the ear drums. It can happen easily. A good evaporative ear cleaner and alcohol free baby wipes work really well.

11. How about cleaning the nose wrinkle?

Every couple of days. An alcohol free baby wipe is best for this. Also keep the wrinkle nice and dry by using Gold Bond powder or baby powder. When you give your dogs a bath you can gently scrub it with shampoo and your thumb or a very mild cloth. Be gentle. It’s very sensitive skin.

This is also a good time to care for the nose itself, as well. You want to prevent the nose from drying out and cracking. To do this, apply either Carmex lip balm, Vaseline, or bag balm to the surface of the nose liberally.

12. Why do you tell me to only allow the dog to have plush chew toys?

Simply…..for your dog’s health. Rawhide is not good for Bulldogs because they tear off large chunks and get them lodged in their throat. They can also get them lodged in their intestines. Anything lodged like that means a very expensive and risky surgery. Hard chew toys will also tip the jaw one direction. This can cause difficulties for your dog’s diet because of constantly dropping their food when they try to eat. Tipped jaws are not just a cosmetic issue for a show dog.

Rope toys….not a good idea. We have gone through this. Surgery. If you insist on giving a dog a rope toy anyways, always, always, always cut the knot off of the end of the rope.

Tennis balls are ok as long as the dog does not tear it in half and swallow it. If the dog does tear it, replace it.

Pigs ears, plastic toys, soft and thin rubber toys, bones, sticks, old shoes, socks are all bad ideas.

Unfortunately plush toys have their drawbacks too. Bulldogs destroy them fairly quickly. Bulldogs have powerful jaws and like to rip toys apart. They are just that way. If they tear it apart, and stuffing is flying everywhere, simply replace it. If you give your dog one of your children’s old stuffed toys be sure to remove eyes, noses, buttons, and ribbons. You do not want a dog swallowing these either.

13. What are some of the common injuries in Bulldogs?...or What is making my dog limp?

One of the most common injuries is from people letting their dog jump off of furniture and such. These injuries are also common when letting young dogs run or walk down stairs all of the time. A Bulldog is a front-heavy breed of dog, and thusly a sharp impact on the front quarters can severely injure them. When this happens with a young dog it damages or even fractures the growth plates in the joints. They can also break bones. A Bulldog is a tough breed, and tolerates a lot of pain. Your dog can be injured and you not know about it because the dog will just keep trucking along and ignore the pain. You have to pay close attention to your Bulldog in order to know if he or she is not feeling 100%.

To prevent these types of injuries I do not allow my dogs to jump from anything. I lift them off. I also do not allow young pups to go running down any stairs. This is a repeated impact on young joints, and not healthy. Once a Bulldog is mature and the growth plates in the legs are closed I do allow them to walk down stairs, but never run. You see a lot of people at shows allowing their Bulldogs to jump off of the show ramp. I either turn my dogs and let them walk back down the ramp, or I lift them and set them on the ground.

14. I am buying a pet, not a show dog, so why is the breed standard important to me?

The answer is very simple. The breed standard, for any breed of dog, is representative of the healthiest specimen of that particular breed you can get. Period. The farther away from matching that standard a dog gets, the unhealthier a dog gets. Even a pet owner does not want to buy a dog that he/ she knows a lot of time and money will be spent at the veterinarian for. Bulldogs are expensive enough to breed or buy, why look to spend up to thousands more $ on a dog you know is going to have health problems? Why encourage breeders of bad dogs to continue to breed unsound animals by buying dogs from them? People do breed bad dogs, and do not care because people are still buying them from them.

I also hear people brag all of the time that their Bulldog has a HUGE beautiful head (like the bulldogs in cartoons). This is a pet peeve of mine. If you “stack” a dog (a standing pose used in showing dogs) and look at the dog from the front, the outside dimension of the head should be able to fit between the space between the front legs. This also means you should see “turn of shoulder” outside of the dimension of the head. If you do not then it is a major fault. It is NOT correct, and absolutely nothing to be bragging about. It’s in the breed standard. Period, end of discussion. Also a too small of head is incorrect. The head should fill that spaces between the front legs. I guarantee that if the head is too large or too small there are also other problems there, and that means potential health problems for the dog.

15. Why are Bulldogs so expensive to buy?

Good question. It costs quite a bit of money to breed Bulldogs to begin with. A breeder starts out by paying high prices for breeding stock to begin with. Then there is the cost of breeding itself. First there is the stud fee, then shipping costs for the semen, the paying a vet to do artificial insemination, there are blood tests, ultra sounds, x-rays, and the cost of a c-section. Also there is the breeder’s time and work. Bulldog puppies are hand raised (by conscientious breeders), not left with the mother for her to raise. This makes raising a pup a 24 hour a day, seven day a week job. Then for us there are the costs of vaccinations, wormer, and micro chips.

Cheaper dogs can be found in newspapers, but I would not ever buy a dog from a newspaper ad. These dogs are almost always from puppy mills, where poor quality dogs are mass produced for profit, or from back yard breeders who thought it would be fun to breed their pet store dog (from a puppy mill) and make some cash. Also a lot of these “bargain” dogs are imports from places such as Poland, Russia, or South America that tend to have HUGE health issues, no legal papers, and usually no vaccinations.

Then there are the pet stores. These are more expensive, but easiest to buy because you can impulse buy with a credit card. THESE ARE ALL PUPPY MILL DOGS FOLKS! Each and every one of them! I don’t care that the clerk says the cute puppy is from a reputable breeder. The clerk is trained to say that, the same way an employee at a fast food joint is trained to say, “Welcome to ******, may I take your order?” These pups are bred in puppy mills, sold to a broker, and sold to a pet store. You are paying a profit 3 ways, for a dog of nefarious origins, and of lesser quality and health. If it looks close enough to be a Bulldog, then they sell it as a Bulldog. Never mind it is registered with the AKC. Some are from actual registered parents, others…well papers can be falsified. If it is Bulldog-like, but not close enough they make up a name and a false registry, and add on an even higher purchase price because it is such a “rare breed.” Rare breed? No, it’s a mix, and they are trying to rob you blind.

Also, don’t be fooled by the “mini bulldog” and think it is a real breed. I have myself tried to get to the true origins of this so called breed with the breeders of these dogs. They are very secretive. Each and every time they refuse to divulge anything about the true origins of these dogs. That is incredibly suspicious.

Be careful of the contract you sign when especially buying a bitch under a show or breeding contract. Read it carefully, and give it a lot of thought. So many breeders are requiring way too much these days out of pure greed. Things like you have to breed back to their stud dogs and pay a stud fee to boot, you have to breed a certain number of litters, you have to give them more than one puppy back. Some even go as far as taking the entire litter of pups from you and then tell you the one you get to keep is the one of worst quality. If you had a different puppy picked for yourself you then have to PAY them for that puppy. Excuse me?!!! Pay for your own puppy that you bred out of a bitch you already paid for and giving back the rest of the litter as well?!!! You may ask yourself who would be foolish enough to do such a thing, and I don’t blame you one bit for asking either. Well, the people who would willingly sign such deals are out there. Most eventually wizen up AFTER they have been raked over the coals at least once, but there are those still out there that never learn. This is sad and ridiculous, but I guess sometimes you just can’t fix stupid.

16. I have read about import dogs, what about these?

Ok, I mentioned these just above. Scary! Stay away, far far away. Think of the puppy miller, now multiply all of the bad things you know or have heard about them. These dogs really are of nefarious origins.

17. What about buying a dog through the internet?

That depends. Many good breeders have websites. These are typically brag pages, and are often linked with or have educational material on them. Often times they become more than just brag pages because of public demand. Our site has developed that way. At first it was just pictures and short paragraphs bragging about how proud we are of our dogs. Then after literally getting thousands of emails asking us about puppies we developed and added our puppy applications to lessen the load on myself and my email inbox. So, getting back to the point, to buy a puppy from a breeder like this you are still going to have to deal directly with the breeder and be screened as to whether the breeder thinks you would provide a good home for the pup. The breeders will not just charge you a price, get shipping info, and send a pup. Often you will be placed on a waiting list with these breeders because they do not breed mass quantities of dogs. Ethical breeders will never just ship you a dog, but will require you to come and pick the dog up in person, and if you refuse, then no puppy for you.

Then there are others, who are really puppy millers in disguise. They do a good job of bragging their dogs up, and making you feel all warm and fuzzy about them. However, look closer. They will say send us a check, money order, or credit card number, and we will ship your puppy to you. Or if you drive halfway here to me, I will meet you along the highway and give you your pup at the truck stop. These breeders do not want you to see the rest of their dogs, folks. They do not want you to see how many they have. They do not want you to see how these dogs are treated and taken care of. And if you knowingly buy a pup from people like this thinking you are rescuing a dog, you really are not. You may have saved that one dog, but you put money in that breeder’s pocket and enabled and encouraged him or her to go breed a bunch more.

The bottom line is to research and be aware of the type of breeder you are buying a dog from. This will go a long ways in telling you how healthy of a dog you are getting.

18. Why do you sell “pet quality” dogs for less and with a spay/ neuter contract?

When somebody wants to buy a pet from us, it is just that, a companion animal. We will not sell a dog to someone in tact who does not have the education and training in the breed to become a reputable and ethical breeder. We care about the breed, health, and quality. These dogs are less in price because you are not purchasing breeding rights to our bloodline from us. If you do not get the animal spayed or neutered by the time it is a certain age it leaves us with the impression that we have been lied to and stolen from.

That being said, when we sell a show/ breeding prospect to someone, we are selling breeding rights to our bloodline, and a promise to help educate and train that person in how to go about becoming a reputable breeder who will in turn breed for health and quality.

Breeding dogs the right way is full of hard work and worry. It is not for everyone.